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传统京剧戏衣“帔”名实考

A Study on the Names and the Reality of Traditional Peking Opera Costumes "Pei"
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摘要 借助梳理戏衣“帔”的形制源流,考据京剧戏衣“帔”名与实之间的对应关系,从而厘清这二者之间的历史演变关系。戏衣“帔”来源于传统服装的典型样式“披风”,可追溯到隋代的“褙子”,作为传统服装的“活化石”传承千年,具有深厚的文化价值和审美价值。近代,京剧行当字面书写“帔”字来表示,但保留了“p i”的发音,产生不为人知的错位,理清、理顺历史演变中的错位,可以更好地进行京剧剧装文化的传承。 By analysis of the shape origin of the costumes"Pei",the correspondence between the name and the reality of the operas of the Peking Opera is clarified,so as to clarify the historical evolution between the two.It reveals the origins of the"Pei"and the Peking Opera costumes"Pei",and the Peking Opera costumes"Pei"comes from the typical style of the traditional costumes"Pifeng",which can be traced back to the"Beizi"of the Sui Dynasty,as the"living fossil"of traditional clothing.The inheritance of the millennium has profound cultural and aesthetic values.In modern times,in the Beijing Opera it wrote the word"Pei"to express it,but retained the pronunciation of"pi",resulting in an unknown misplacement,clarifying and rationalizing the misplacement in the historical evolution,and better performing the Beijing Opera drama culture.inherited.
作者 滕雪梅 Teng Xuemei
出处 《服装设计师》 2019年第9期128-133,共6页 Fashion China
基金 北京市教委资助项目,编号SZ201911417030
关键词 京剧戏衣 形制 Peking Opera costumes Pei Shape
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