贵州苗族辫绣之辨

Analysis of Miao Braid Stitch in Guizhou

[研究意义]辫绣是贵州黔东南地区苗绣技艺中的特殊绣法,因其在成品效果上与绉绣、绞籽绣、双针锁绣十分相似,常被混为一谈。[研究方法]采用文献研究法、田野调查法和对比研究法,从制作工艺和艺术风格上将辫绣与绉绣、绞籽绣、双针锁绣三者进行对比分析。[研究结果和结论]研究认为:①辫绣和绉绣、绞籽绣在风格上均呈现出粗犷、古朴、浑厚的艺术面貌,这是由于其工艺具有共同之处,即针法一致,且都需打辫子、盘带。但辫绣是将带子平盘,绉绣还需起褶,绞籽绣则是要将带子翻转拧结成突起的圆圈状;②辫绣与双针锁绣在风格上都呈现出强烈的抽象性和立体感,但在针法上则全然不同,辫绣以带盘绕、单针固定,双针锁绣双针运行、以线盘绕。

Braid stitch is a special technique in the Miao embroidery in the southeast of Guizhou province. It is often confused with wrinkling stitch, wring stitch and double needle stitch because they're similar. This paper uses literature research, field investigation and comparative research to make a comparative analysis of braid stitch, wrinkling stitch, wring stitch and double needle stitch in terms of their techniques and styles. It concludes that braid stitch, wrinkling stitch and wring stitch present the same artistic style of straightforwardness, primitive simplicity and power because their techniques have much in common. But what differs is that braid stitch just puts belts into flat loops, wrinkling stitch needs to make pleats and wring stitch needs to twist the belt into a raised circle. Both braid stitch and double needle stitch present strong abstractness and three-dimensional sense in style, but they're completely different in stitching. Braid stitch is coiled with tapes, fixed with a single needle, while double needle stitch runs with double needles and coils with threads.