僭越与时尚：洋布在晚清的社会活性

Arrogation and fashion: calico’s social activity in the late qing dynasty

[研究意义]中国传统服饰习俗有两方面,一方面以小农自然经济的自给自足方式为基础;另一方面是以朝廷颁布的服制形成礼制,在民间形成习俗以规定臣民。而在晚清时的中国,由于通商口岸的开放,西洋纺织品进入中国,对传统中国“土布”市场带来冲击。[研究方法和内容]本文选择洋布在中国的发展的脉络为视角,论述晚清洋布发展对中国服饰礼制和习俗的影响,探讨由洋布而引起的在晚清时的社会阶层关系与时代风尚。

Chinese traditional dressing custom has two aspects.On the one hand,it's based on the natural economy of family autarky.On the other hand,it's influenced by the dressing system issued by the court.In the late Qing dynasty,due to the opening of trading ports,the influx of western textiles into China had a great impact on the traditional Chinese‘cloth'market.This paper analyzes the calico's development in China as well as its impact on Chinese clothing etiquette and customs,and further explores the social class relations and fashion caused by calico in the late Qing dynasty.