移圈组织在全成形孕妇毛衫中的设计及其运用

Design and application of loop transfer in full fashioned pregnant sweater

分析了移圈组织的设计原理。全成形织物的移圈花型主要靠4块针板翻针加摇床动作构成的,移圈过程中形成的孔洞和重叠目都能组成花型的一部分。在研究分析孕妇群体的生理特征以及穿着要求的基础上,利用移圈组织分别设计了适合孕妇毛衫的3种不同类型的肌理效果:网眼肌理、绞花肌理以及仿蕾丝肌理,并结合实例说明不同肌理效果的编织方法,探讨在编织过程中遇到的问题以及解决方法,阐明了不同移圈组织结构在孕妇毛衫结构及装饰设计中的应用。

The design principle of loop transfer was analyzed in this paper.The loop transfer pattern of full-fashioned fabric is mainly formed by turning needles in four needle-plates and shaking machine.Part of the pattern can be formed by the holes and overlapping meshes during the loop-transfer process.The physiological characteristics and wearing requirements of pregnant women were analyzed,and three different texture effects of pregnant women′s sweaters were designed based on the loop transfer tissues:mesh texture,twisted texture and lace-like texture.The problems and solutions during knitting process were discussed.The application of different loop transfer structures in the structure and decoration design of pregnant women′s sweaters was interpreted.