茜草植物染料在羊绒纤维染色中的应用

Application of rubia vegetable dyes in cashmere fiber dyeing

针对茜草植物染料染色羊绒纤维时,耐日晒和耐水洗色牢度均低于3级、颜色重现性差的问题,采用明矾预媒染色方法对羊绒纤维进行染色,结果表明:在染液pH值4.0~4.5,明矾媒染剂质量浓度0.5~1.0 g/L,茜草染料用量低于0.5%(owf)时,染液可基本吸清,颜色重现性好,且羊绒纤维手感不受影响,耐日晒和耐水洗色牢度均可提高0.5级以上,采用羊毛保护剂可以改善媒染后羊绒纤维手感,明矾媒染对色光有加深的影响,媒染前后纤维色光变化较小。

Aiming at solving the problem that color fastness to light and to washing of cashmere fibers dyed with rubia plant dyes was lower than grade 3 and color repeatability is poor,cashmere fibers were dyed by alum pre-mordant dyeing method.Test results show that when alum pre-mordant dyeing is used,pH value of dye solution is 4.0-4.5,concentration of alum mordant is 0.5-1.0 g/L,and dosage of rubia plant dyes is lower than 0.5%(owf),dye solution can be almost absorbed,color reproduction is good,and the hand feeling of cashmere fiber is not affected.Color fastness to both light and washing is improved by more than 0.5 grade.Hand feeling of cashmere after mordant dyeing can be improved by using wool protectant.Color shade change of cashmere before and after mordant dyeing is less than that of alum mordant dyeing.Through the study of pre-mordant dyeing method and process conditions,this paper provides a reference for the implementation and control of cashmere plant dyeing products.