霓裳华衣——清宫后妃服饰分类述略

Rainbow-Colored and Gorgeous Costumes——A Brief Description of the Classification of Concubines’ Clothing in Qing Imperial Palace

清代帝后服饰种类多样,分别用于祭祀、朝会、节庆、巡行、日常闲居等不同的场合.其中后妃便服,由 于受清代服饰制度的限制较小,形式多样,面料精美,颜色及纹样丰富,做工精美,反映出清代不同时期的审美情趣及 时代特征,极具欣赏性.本文以沈阳故宫馆藏服饰实物为例,从形制、面料、纹饰、特色等方面对礼服、吉服、常服、 便服等各类清宫后妃服饰做综合性介绍。

In Qing Dynasty, emperors and empresses dress differently in a variety of occasions, such as sacrifice,morning rally, festival, tour, daily wear and so on. As the concubines’ casual clothing was less limited by the dress system of Qing Dynasty with various forms, exquisite fabrics, rich colors and patterns, and exquisite workmanship, it reflects the aesthetic taste and the characteristics of the times in different periods of Qing Dynasty, and is worth appreciating. Taking the clothing collected in the Shenyang Palace Museum as an example,this paper makes a comprehensive introduction of concubines’ clothing in Qing imperial palace such as full dress, auspicious dress, informal dress, casual dress and so on from the aspects of shape, fabrics, patterns,characteristics and so on.