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侗布技艺历史变迁 被引量:9

Historical Changes of Ancient Dong Cloth and Its Technology
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摘要 依据文献资料对侗布的形成与发展进行梳理,通过对各个历史时期侗布发展特点的分析,寻找侗布技艺形成、发展与演变的规律。侗布从结草成衣、织布制衣、五色斑布等造物过程中创造出编、染、织、绣等技艺手法,形成了侗族服饰的材料语言和造型符号。基于文献梳理,认为以亮布作为古老侗族的服饰符号并不十分恰当。通过对侗布技艺历史变迁的研究,为侗族传统服饰材料和手工技艺的传承与发展提供研究依据。 Formation and development of Dong cloth in ancient times were summarized through literature review.Development characteristics of Dong cloth in different historical periods were analyzed to fine the formation,development and evolution rules.The skill methods of Dong cloth include knitting,dyeing,weaving and embroidering.They were formed from the changes of making garment by mixing grass,making garment by weaving cloth to colorful cloth.The material language and style symbol were also formed.It was found that it was not reasonable to take Liang cloth as the symbol of Dong cloth.This study may provide some research references for the inheritance and development of the materials and hand skills of traditional Dong cloth.
作者 张国云 ZHANG Guoyun(Design Academy,Sichuan Fine Arts Institute,Chongqing 401331,China)
出处 《服装学报》 CAS 2019年第4期342-346,共5页 Journal of Clothing Research
基金 国家社会科学基金项目(16BG124)
关键词 古代侗布 技艺 历史变迁 侗锦 亮布 ancient Dong cloth technology historical changes Dong brocade bright cloth
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