丝绸之路中外服饰艺术交流研究现状

Review of Studies on the Art Exchange of Chinese and Foreign Costumes Along the Silk Road

丝绸之路是世界最早开通的连接亚、欧、非3大洲的文化大动脉。丝路沿线各国在历史上频繁密切的服饰文化交流互动,促使中国服饰文化在传承、发展、演化的过程中吸收了大量优秀的异质文化因子,呈现出不同以往的新面貌。通过对“丝绸之路服饰艺术交流”相关研究成果的梳理,发现现有研究成果可以划分为两个阶段:前期研究成果主要是针对丝绸之路的概论性、整体性的研究,并呈逐渐拓展趋势,服饰艺术、文化开始受到关注;近30年以服饰为视角的丝绸之路文化交融研究更加多元化,并可分为通论性、专题性、案例性3种主要研究类型。但目前国内外学界关于以“服饰”为视角的丝绸之路文化交流研究成果多以论文的形式散点出现,有“重纺织、轻服饰”“重陆丝、轻海丝”的现象,系统研究丝绸之路中外服饰艺术交流的服装史论专著暂付阙如。

The Silk Road is the earliest cultural artery connecting the three continents of Asia,Europe and Africa in the ancient world.The frequent exchange and interaction of costume cultures between the countries along the Silk Road has prompted the Chinese costume culture to present a new look in the past due to the absorption of a large number of outstanding heterogeneous cultural factors in the process of inheritance,development and evolution.The research results of"Silk Road costume art exchange"can be divided into two periods,the previous research results are mainly about the overview and integrity of the Silk Road and the clothing art and culture began to attract attention;the recent studies on the cultural integration of the Silk Road became more diversified from the perspective of clothing,and the studies can be divided into three major research types:general theory,special topic and case.However,the research results of cultural exchange on the Silk Road from the perspective of"Costumes"at home and abroad are mostly published in the form of papers at present.Systematic research needs to be strengthened.