全成形电脑横机手套设计与编织工艺

Design and knitting process of gloves on full-formed computerized flat knitting machine

为促进全成形产品开发和更好地推广全成形编织技术,以双针床全成形电脑横机及SDS-ONE APPEX3设计系统为依托,对全成形手套设计方法和编织原理进行研究。根据手套不同部段外观及性能要求,合理设计编织工艺,实现针织手套的一体成形。研究认为:五指手套可采用移针、挂目编织,实现指间有、无重叠目连接;半指手套可采用交错吃针、纱嘴回踢、起底编织3种起始编织方式,实现手指下端开口编织,但起底编织方式仅限隔针连指手套编织且不适用于大拇指手掌内侧款式;大拇指编织分为普通、三维立体、手掌内侧、倾斜内侧4种不同类型,其中三维立体大拇指具有方向性,最符合人体手部结构。

In order to promote the development of full-formed products and better popularize full-formed knitting technology, the design method and knitting principle of full-formed gloves were studied based on computerized flat knitting machine with two-needle bar and SDS-ONE APPEX3 design system. According to the appearance and performance requirements of different parts of gloves, the knitting process was designed reasonably to realize full-formed knitting of knitted gloves. Results show that five-fingered gloves can be knitted by loop transfer or tuck to achieve overlapped or non-overlapped connection of fingers. Half-fingered gloves can be knitted by three initial knitting modes including staggered looping, yarn carrier swing and bottom knitting, to realize open knitting at the lower end of fingers, but bottom knitting is only suitable for interstitial mittens and it is not suitable for the thumb style of palm inside. Thumb knitting can be divided into four different types including ordinary, three-dimensional, palm inside, and inclined inside. Among them, the three-dimensional thumb is directional and most suitable for human hand structure.