黔东南七十二寨侗女性围腰艺术研究

Research on the female apron art of seventy-two Dong villages in southeast of Guizhou province

围腰是七十二寨侗女性盛装的重要组成部分,也是盛装中工艺最精湛的部位。文章在田野调查的基础上,结合相关的文献资料,对围腰的种类与形制、刺绣针法与图案纹样等进行了调研,从中总结了围腰的艺术特征。七十二寨侗民们遵循着和谐与统一的艺术规律,通过将规则简练的几何形状与丰富多样的纹样相结合的方式设计了围腰的内外造型,并通过强调主体纹样的艺术形式来表达求福纳吉的美好心愿,同时赋予了围腰很强的审美功能,以及族群标识功能和礼仪功能。

Apron is an important component of the female’s attire in the Seventy-two Dong villages and it is also the most exquisite technical part in the attire. On the basis of field investigation and related literature date, the types, shapes, embroidery methods and decorative patterns of the aprons were investigated. Besides, the artistic features of aprons were summarized. The people from seventy-two Dong villages follow the artistic law of harmony and unity to design the inner and outer shape of the apron by combining the regular and concise geometric shapes with various patterns. They also express the desire to seek happiness by emphasizing the art form of main pattern. Meanwhile, the apron is endowed with strong aesthetic function, ethnic identity function and etiquette function.