摘要
围腰是七十二寨侗女性盛装的重要组成部分,也是盛装中工艺最精湛的部位。文章在田野调查的基础上,结合相关的文献资料,对围腰的种类与形制、刺绣针法与图案纹样等进行了调研,从中总结了围腰的艺术特征。七十二寨侗民们遵循着和谐与统一的艺术规律,通过将规则简练的几何形状与丰富多样的纹样相结合的方式设计了围腰的内外造型,并通过强调主体纹样的艺术形式来表达求福纳吉的美好心愿,同时赋予了围腰很强的审美功能,以及族群标识功能和礼仪功能。
Apron is an important component of the female’s attire in the Seventy-two Dong villages and it is also the most exquisite technical part in the attire. On the basis of field investigation and related literature date, the types, shapes, embroidery methods and decorative patterns of the aprons were investigated. Besides, the artistic features of aprons were summarized. The people from seventy-two Dong villages follow the artistic law of harmony and unity to design the inner and outer shape of the apron by combining the regular and concise geometric shapes with various patterns. They also express the desire to seek happiness by emphasizing the art form of main pattern. Meanwhile, the apron is endowed with strong aesthetic function, ethnic identity function and etiquette function.
作者
张顺爱
全克楠
ZHANG Shun’ai;QUAN Ke’nan(School of Fashion and Art Design,Ministry of Education,Donghua University,Shanghai 200051,China;Key Laboratory of Clothing Design&Technology,Ministry of Education,Donghua University,Shanghai 200051,China)
出处
《丝绸》
CAS
CSCD
北大核心
2019年第11期105-110,共6页
Journal of Silk
基金
教育部人文社会科学研究规划基金项目(14YJA760052)
中央高校基本科研业务费专项资金项目(2232019G-08)
关键词
七十二寨侗
围腰
形制
装饰
功能
seventy-two Dong villages
apron
shape and structure
decoration
function