棉织物天然靛蓝与栀子黄套染工艺研究

Over Dyeing of Cotton Fabric with Natural Indigo and Gardenia Yellow

文中将天然靛蓝染料和栀子黄染料进行套染,以获得色泽饱满、稳定的军绿色。研究了天然靛蓝在棉织物上的提升力及染色性能,并探讨天然靛蓝染料和栀子黄染料套染染色顺序,测试了染色后织物的色光、K/S值及染色牢度。结果表明,天然靛蓝染色工艺中,染色织物的K/S值随着靛蓝染料浓度的增加明显提升,具有较好的提升力;通过天然靛蓝染料和栀子黄染料套染,染得了一系列绿色样品,获得了目标军绿色,其中栀子黄套染靛蓝染色工艺可以获得深浅、浓淡不一的绿色系染色效果,且染色牢度较佳,其耐皂洗色牢度、耐摩擦色牢度达到3.0~4.0级,耐日晒色牢度可达3.5级及以上。

In this paper, the natural indigo dye and the gardenia yellow dye are over-dyed to obtain a full and stable military green color based on natural dyes. The lifting power and dyeing properties of natural indigo on cotton fabrics were studied. The dyeing sequence of natural indigo dye and gardenia yellow dye was studied. The color shade, K/S value and dyeing fastness of the dyed fabric were tested. The results show that in the natural indigo monochrome dyeing process, the K/S value of the dyed fabric increases with the increase of the concentration of indigo dye, which has better lifting force. Through a natural indigo dye and scorpion yellow dye dyeing, a series of green samples were dyed and the target army green was obtained. The dyeing process of scorpion yellow dyeing indigo can give the dyeing effect of shades of darkness and shade. The soap washing fastness, rubbing fastness of the dyed cotton fabric can reach Level 3.0 to Level 4.0 and light fastness up to grade 3.5 and above.