被体深邃,美在意象——中国传统服饰设计的美学思想

The Body Is Deeply Concealed in Clothing,and the Beauty Exists in Image:Aesthetic Thought of Chinese Traditional Clothing Design

服饰之美是中华民族引以自豪的文化成就。中国传统服饰成型于春秋战国时期,这一时期出现了一种“衣裳相连,被体深邃”的新式服装,其特点是雍容典雅,可以拥蔽全身,使身体深藏不露,故称为“深衣”。“深衣”的形制是中国礼仪文化的结果,直接影响了传统服饰的美学样式。秦汉时期已经把以“深衣”为特征的袍服确立为服饰的基本形式,并发展出一套庞杂、系统的车舆服饰的典章制度。在之后的朝代里,受中国哲学美学思想和传统文化的影响,服饰设计基本保持了以“深衣”为特征的整体风貌和风格特色。传统中式服装五色作服、衣必文绣、被体深邃,在造型、装饰和色彩上都有独特的美学风格。传统的袍服宽衣博带,会随着身体的活动呈现出各种姿态,服饰的浪漫、诗意和舒放自如随着人的行为举止表现出来。这种美如影随形,让人“舍形而悦影”,是人与服饰共同呈现的韵律和魅力,表现出一种“气韵生动”的意象之美。

The beauty of costume is a cultural achievement that the Chinese nation is proud of. Chinese traditional clothes were formed in the Spring and Autumn Period and Warring States Period. During these periods, a new type of clothing featuring gracefulness and elegance appeared, which could cover the whole body and keep it hidden, thus it is called “shenyi” (deep clothing).The form of “shenyi” is the result of Chinese etiquette culture, which directly affects the aesthetic style of traditional clothing. During the Qin and Han dynasties, the gown characterized by “shenyi” was established as the basic form of clothing, and a set of complicated and systematic rules and regulations for vehicles and public dress were developed. In later dynasties, influenced by Chinese philosophy, aesthetics and traditional culture, costume design basically maintained the overall style and characteristic of “shenyi.” Traditional Chinese costumes have unique aesthetic styles in shape, decoration and color, such as five classic colors, embroidery and deep clothing. Traditional gowns and bands show various postures along with physical activities. Romantic, poetic and relaxed clothing are displayed along with people’s behavior. This kind of beauty is like a shadow following the shape, which makes people “give up the shape and enjoy the shadow.” It is the rhythm and charm presented by people and clothing together, showing a kind of image beauty featuring “rhythmic vitality.”