全成形毛衫袖身拼合成形工艺研究

Study of Forming Process of Sleeve and Body Combination of Fully Fashioned Sweater

基于岛精(Shima Seiki)公司的4针床电脑横机,阐述全成形毛衫袖身拼合成形编织工艺。首先介绍4针床电脑横机全成形编织原理,然后根据全成形毛衫袖身拼合实际情况,阐述5种常用拼合方法,包括直接拼合、单平收拼合以及双平收拼合中的双拼角A、双拼角B、双拼角C+D。分析各拼合方法的编织工艺要点,从款式和服用舒适性、编织难易程度以及编织时间等方面比较各工艺的优缺点。指出直接拼合成形最简单高效,但最不贴合人体结构;双拼角A编织难度最高,编织过程中易产生断线,但与普通成形版型更接近,更合体;单平收拼合、双拼角B、双拼角C+D比直接拼合更合体,又比双拼角A更容易编织。

Based on the four needle bar computerized flat knitting machine of shima seiki,this paper expounds the knitting process of sleeve and body combination of fully fashioned sweater.It introduces the integral knitting principle,and expounds five combination methods of sleeve and body of fully fashioned sweater,including direct combination,single combination and double combination.Double combination is divided into double combination A,double combination B and double combination C+D.The key points of the knitting techniques of each method are analyzed,and the advantages and disadvantages of each process are compared from style,wearing comfort,knitting difficulty and knitting time.It points out that direct combination is the most simple and efficient,but it is the least suitable for human structure.Double combination A is the most difficult to knit,and is easy to produce broken lines,but it is much closer to the ordinary formed version and fitter.The single combination,double combination B and C+D are much fitter than direct combination,and easier to knit than double combination A.