经曲线织物的生产与实践

Production and practice of warp curved fabrics

传统机织物使用平行排列的筘片进行织造,在织造过程中,钢筘配合引纬和打纬前后摆动,上下位置不变,织物中的经纱平行排列,与纬纱垂直相交。经曲线织物是指通过改造传统钢筘,使钢筘筘片由原来的平行排列变成梯形结构排列,同时,梯形钢筘配合打纬机构在垂直方向上下运动,使得织物中经纱的排列密度发生改变,因而在织物表面形成经向曲线。钢筘上下动程越大,经曲线就越明显。主要介绍了一种经曲线织物的设计和生产过程。对织物设计,各工序的生产要点和成品规格进行了详细介绍。所设计生产的经曲线织物具有非常好的立体感,适合做男士衬衫面料。

In traditional woven,reed pieces are arranged in parallel.During weaving,the reed swings before and after weft insertion and beating.The warp yarns in the fabric are arranged in parallel,and the warp yarns in the fabric intersect vertically with the weft yarns.The warp-curved fabric is a kind of fabric that transforms the traditional reed from parallel arrangement to trapezoidal arrangement.At the same time,the trapezoidal reed moves up and down in vertical direction with beating-up mechanism,which changes the warp-yarn density in the fabric.Thus,warp-curve is formed on the surface of the fabric.The larger the reed’s movement in the vertical direction is,the more obvious the warp-curve is.The design and production of warp curve fabric are mainly introduced.The fabric design,production points and finished product specifications of each process are described in detail.The curved fabric designed and produced has a very good three-dimensional effect and is suitable for men’s shirt fabrics.