罗兰·巴特的时装符号思想研究

A Study on Roland Barthes’s Semiological Thoughts of Fashion

罗兰·巴特将各种社会现象包括服装都纳入符号学的分析范围内。在《流行体系》中,巴特区分了真实服装、意象服装、书写服装三种服装类型,他绕开现实层面,从时装杂志的语言入手分析书写服装。这种由书写服装建构出的时装修辞系统,赋予了时尚活动以意义。巴特发现时装杂志利用语言修辞将服装说得天花乱坠,除了使时尚主体产生某种幻想外,最主要的目的是刺激消费者的购买欲,赢取经济利益。巴特将时装讨论置于一个“封闭”结构,不关注事实上的时装变化,这或许有失偏颇,但这种研究方法为时装研究提供了一种新的范式,对之后的时装与时尚研究产生了影响深远,因而具有重要的研究价值。

According to Roland Barthes,all kinds of social phenomena could be treated as the research object of semiology.The study of fashion symbols as a turning point in his academic thoughts was often overlooked by the academic circles.In The Fashion System,Barthes distinguishes three kinds of clothing forms and analyzes the written clothing based on the language of fashion magazines.With the rhetorical system,written clothing produces the meaning of fashion activities.He thinks that fashion magazines make fashion meaningful and fantastic through the rhetorical system to stimulate consumers’consumption desire.His theory which analyzes written clothing in a closed structure overlooks the actual fashion changes,but this kind of semiological method provides a new fashion research paradigm that has far-reaching implications for future fashion studies.Therefore,it is of great significance to have it studied.