芳伯胺染料对蚕丝织物的重氮化-偶合染色及工艺调控

Diazotization-coupling dyeing and process control of silk fabrics by primary aryl amine dyes

为提高蚕丝织物的染色牢度,以重氮化-偶合染色工艺采用芳伯胺染料对蚕丝织物进行染色,优化了同浴加热阶段上染温度、染浴pH值和元明粉质量浓度等染色条件,研究了染色前后颜色变化机制,并探讨了该方法的染料适用范围。结果表明:将芳伯胺染料与蚕丝织物同浴加热上染后,再在低温下将染料重氮化,并立即与蚕丝偶合,可大幅提升染色织物的K/S值;染色织物颜色的改变源于染色后染料分子共轭体系改变导致的发色体能级带隙的变化;苯胺类、萘胺类及1-氨基蒽醌类芳伯胺染料均适用于该反应性染色方法,染色蚕丝织物的耐皂洗色牢度及耐摩擦色牢度均能达到4级以上。

In order to improve the fastness property of dyed silk fabrics,primary aryl amine dyes were selected for dyeing silk fabrics by a diazotization-coupling dyeing process.The dyeing conditions,such as dyeing temperature,pH value and concentration of sodium sulfate were optimized and the mechanism of color change before and after dyeing was discussed.The application scope of dyes was explored.The results showed that the K/S values of dyed fabrics are greatly increased when primary aryl amine dyes and silk fabrics are heated in one bath followed by diazotization of dyes and coupling with silk at low temperature.The reason for color change of dyed silk fabrics originates from the change of dye molecular conjugation leading to the variation of chromophore′s band gap.Aniline,naphthylamine and 1-aminoanthraquinone dyes can be applied in this reactive dyeing method.The washing fastness and rubbing fastness of dyed silk fabrics could reach above grade 4.