日常·性别·欲望:民国时期烫发问题的再审视

Daily life, Gender and Desire:A Review Study of Perm Phenomenon during the Republic of China Period

烫发是民国社会风尚变迁的表征之一,是一种日常生活现象,也是女性身体美化史上的一环。借助日常生活史、性别史以及欲望心理研究的相关理念重新审视该问题,能够从史料中发现人的感受、人的欲望,以及权力在人欲面前的失效,由此呈现历史的最基本内核--"人"的存在。烫发本质上是女性在美欲诉求驱使下自然发展而成的一种现象,国家在国际国内的地位转换(国际社会中的"女性地位"与国内社会中的"男性地位")使民国政府禁止女性烫发成为必然,而女性美欲与商家利欲的合力又是政府烫发禁令一再失效的重要致因。

Perm phenomenon is one kind of representations of social custom in the Republic of China period. And also, it is a phenomenon which concerns with the beauty of the female in daily life. This paper tries to study this phenomenon with three elements: personal feeling, human desire and power invalidation by related research results of history of everyday life, gender history and psychological study of desire. Thereby, it tries to interpret the function of "human",which is the basic core in human development in history. Essentially, with the social development, perm is a social phenomenon requested by the beauty desire of the female.The transformation of the state’s status at home and abroad(the "female status" in the international community and the "male status" in the domestic society)made it inev-itable for the government of the Republic of China to ban women’s perm. However, the beauty and the seeking benefit desires are crucial elements that lead the failure of the prohibition.