汉族传统裙装的语言结构及其身体话语研究

A study on linguistic structure and body discourse of ancient skirt of Han nationality

汉族传统裙装作为一种渗透中国礼制精神的服饰现象,其形态变迁是反映民族审美意识发展规律的文化指征。当前研究以汉族传统裙装的客观物象及其社会学根据的还原为主,对服饰符号与身体审美意识的内在关联的研究相对薄弱。文章采用符号学美学的研究方法,对汉族裙装在不同历史阶段的能指与所指、系统内部构成及组合段进行了梳理与分析,在其历史性的语言结构中揭示出礼制社会身体话语的历史内容,并提出汉族裙装传统文化的传承应立足于积极的服饰价值观,即通过服饰去实现身体的和谐存在之审美理想。

Traditional skirt of Han nationality is a costume phenomenon reflecting the spirit of Chinese ritual system. The form changes of ancient skirts reflect cultural indications of development law of national ethnic aesthetic consciousness. Current researches focus on the objective objects of ancient skirts and the restoration based on sociology, but ignore the inherent relationship between the costume signs and body aesthetic consciousness. The paper uses the method of semiology and aesthetics to collate and analyze the signifier and the signified of skirts of Han nationality in different historical stages, internal composition and combination, reveals the historical content of ritual system in social body discourse, and indicates that the inheritance of traditional culture of skirts of Han nationality should be based on positive costume values, that is, achieve the aesthetic ideal of harmonious existence of body.