青年女性腰部形态分类对旗袍腰省位置设定的影响

Influences of waist shape classification of young female on position setting of cheongsam waist dart

为探究腰省设计与腰部形态之间的关系,运用三维人体扫描仪对青年女性腰部数据进行分析,提取了反映青年女性腰部形态的特征变量,腰臀角与腰矢横径比,然后采用聚类分析方法得出9种腰部形态分类,并得到覆盖率最高的3类腰部形态,大众扁身型、凹腰扁身型与大众圆身型。再基于旗袍的基本纸样结构,进行旗袍腰省结构的优化设计实验。通过主观评价分析得出,大众扁身型与大众圆身型前后腰省位置设置在二等分点上收腰效果最佳,凹腰扁身型前片腰省设置在二等分点上,后片腰省设置在靠近侧缝的四等分点上收腰效果最理想。

In order to explore the relationship between waist dart design and waist shape,the waist data of young female extracted by three-dimensional body scanner,and the characteristic variables such as hip angle and the waist vector cross ratio reflecting the waist shape of young women were extracted. The waist shapes were classified into 9 types by using clustering analysis. The mass-flat type,wasp-waisted flat type and mass-cylindrical type have the highest coverage among the nine types. Then the design of waist darts was optimized based on the basic pattern of cheongsam. By subjective evaluation analysis,the massflat type and the mass-cylindrical type will have the best effect if the waist darts on the bisector. The wasp-waisted flat type will have the best effect if the front waist darts on the bisector and the back ones on the point of quartered close to side seam.