两片衣袖袖山结构与袖子造型的配伍关系研究

Compatibility of two pieces of sleeve sleeves structure and sleeve shape

克服传统以袖山高和袖肥作为袖山结构的依据,采用现代制袖方式,以能综合反映袖山特征的袖深比和前袖山点为依据,将这2个因素控制在合理的范围内,通过二次通用旋转组合法产生13组试验方案。利用CLO3D软件进行三维着装模拟,采用五分法对手臂自然下垂时衣袖的整体造型进行评价,利用SPSS软件建立回归方程,通过MATLAB软件生成三维图像进行直观分析,以获取衣袖造型处于最佳状态时的袖深比和前袖山点取值范围,为衣袖结构设计提供理论参考。

In order to overcome the traditional basis of sleeve mountain structure,in which sleeve mountain height and sleeve fertilizer are used,the modern sleeve making method is adopted,and the sleeve depth ratio and front sleeve mountain point which can comprehensively reflect sleeve mountain characteristics are taken as the basis.These two factors are controlled in a reasonable range,and 13 groups of experimental schemes are produced by the second general rotation combination method.The CLO3 D software is used to simulate the three-dimensional dress,the whole modeling of sleeves when the arms are naturally drooping is evaluated by the method of five parts,the regression equation is established by SPSS software,and the three-dimensional image is generated by MATLAB software for intuitive analysis,so as to obtain the sleeve depth ratio and the value range of the front sleeve hill point when the sleeves are in the best shape,which can provide theoretical reference for the sleeve structure design.