摘要
设计并生产了棉/苎麻混纺纱银丝变纬密提花织物。经纬纱采用米灰色棉/苎麻混纺纱,在织物表面呈现米灰色,同时配合闪亮的银丝,起到点缀效果,增强了立体感。织物采用纬起花组织,适用于休闲服装。络筒工序以"低车速、小张力、降毛羽、合理控制温湿度、防断头"为工艺原则;整经工序以"低车速、三均匀、降毛羽、多头少轴"为工艺原则,合理设计了整经速度和配轴;浆纱工序以"低车速、贴伏毛羽、大压浆力、重浸透兼被覆"为工艺原则;织造工序以"中车速、大张力、早开口、控制温湿度"为工艺原则。经过生产工艺的优化与设计,织造效率达85%,下机一等品率达93%,入库一等品率达99%。
Cotton/ramie and Silver Jacquard fabric with variable weft density is designed and produced.D/mélange blended yarn ofcotton/ramie is used as warp and weft yarns,and the silver yarn is used to embellish the effect,which can enhance the three-dimensionaleffect.At the same time,the fabric adopts the weft-shear structure to match the appearance of fabric,and it is the preferred raw material forcasual wear due to the outstanding style.The winding should be carried out with"low speed,small tension,reducing hairiness,controlling oftemperature and humidity reasonably,preventing breakage".The warping and sizing should be carried out with"low speed,three even,reducing hairiness,more yarn and less beam".The sizing should be carried out with"low speed,coverage hairiness,large squeezingpressure,size immersing through and covering uniformly".The weaving should be carried out with"low speed,larger tension,earlier open,controlling temperature and humidity".Through the optimization and design of production processes,the weaving efficiency could reach85%,the first-class product rate could reach 93%,and the first-class product rate could reach 99%.
作者
马昀
MA Yun(Jiangsu College of Engineering and Technology,Nantong 226007,China)
出处
《上海纺织科技》
北大核心
2019年第12期58-60,共3页
Shanghai Textile Science & Technology
基金
江苏省先进纺织工程技术中心[苏政办2014(22)号]
江苏省品牌专业《现代纺织技术》(PPZY2015A093)
关键词
棉
苎麻
混纺
提花织物
银丝
变纬密
织造工艺
织物规格
cotton
ramie
blending
jacquard fabric
silver yarn
variable weft density
weaving process
fabric specification