《旧唐书·舆服志》与《新唐书·车服志》比较研究

A Comparative Study of Old Book of Tang: Carraiges and Attire and New Book of Tang : Carraiges and Attire

两唐书《舆(车)服志》在服饰观念与书写方式上有所不同。《旧志》重视令式作用,强调令式规定与实际使用的不一致,《新志》则将此类叙述尽数删除,在忽视令式的同时无视服制的现实变化。《旧志》叙述服饰,分男、女服前后排列,《新志》则混同男女,均按君臣顺序叙述,反映宋代皇权的提高。《旧志》对妇女服饰从全身遮蔽到全无遮蔽持批评态度,《新志》则没有这一意识。当然,《新志》也具有追求体例严谨、用语理性等优点。

The Two Books of Tang:Carraiges and Attire differ in their clothing concepts and writing styles.The Old Book attaches importance to the role of the order,emphasizing the inconsistency between the order and the actual use,while the New Book deletes all such narratives,ignoring the order and ignoring the actual changes in service system.In the old Book,the narrative of the men's and women's costume is arranged before and after,while the new narrative mixes men's and women's costume.They are all described in the order of monarchs and ministers,reflecting the improvement of the imperial power of the Song Dynasty.Old Book is critical of women's clothing from full body cover to full cover,while the New Book does not have this consciousness.Of course,the New Book also has the advantages of rigorous pursuit of style and rational language.