审美人类学视野下的时尚美学:访彭静莲教授

Fashion Aesthetics from the Perspective of Aesthetic Anthropology:An Interview with Ching Lin Pang

时尚的建构机制既可以是新奇的、反叛的,也可以是传统的、自然主义的。当代时尚逻辑具有将原本处于不同等级序列的风格交相杂糅的想象力和分配能力,这恰恰见出了时尚的两副面孔和缜密的双向运作机制。在此意义上,时尚问题就成为了时代与社会,情感与想象的最富于魅力的一面镜像。时尚的形成、变化与符码转换紧密相联,从符码到符码的转换是时尚、艺术、音乐和生活方式的转换,其中必然包含意义的生产与再生产。在当代多元文化叠合、杂糅与流动的语境中,时尚作为情感与多重资本的融合,将跨文化/多元文化、审美制度、审美认同、审美资本、审美治理、文化遗产再生化、生态美学等问题联结起来。无疑地,对于这些问题的阐释需要跨学科的视野与方法,这也为审美人类学研究带来了新的契机与挑战。

The mechanism that generates notions of fashion may be novel and rebellious,or it may be traditional and naturalistic.The contemporary logic of fashion features an imagination and power that blends styles that used to be regarded as of different categories and classes.This shows exactly the double faces of fashion and its two-way operational mechanism.In this sense,issues related to fashion have become a most charming mirror image of a particular age and society as well as its imagination and sentiments.The formation and change of fashion is linked with the change of codes,whose transformation from one to another entails a switch-over of fashion,art,music,and lifestyle,which must include the generation or regeneration of meaning.In the context of the contemporary world where cultures overlap,mix and clash,fashion as an integration of emotion and multiple assets tries to span across different cultures and different esthetic systems,identities,assets and governance institutions to give new life to cultural heritage and link esthetic concerns to ecologic ones.Undoubtedly,the interpretation of these issues requires an interdisciplinary vision and method,which also brings new opportunities and challenges for aesthetic anthropology research.