经编鞋材的双色贾卡提花工艺研究

Study on Two-color Jacquard Processes for Wrap-knitting Shoe Fabric

为解决传统经编三维间隔鞋材提花组织和花色不丰富、生产效率低的问题,提出一种在高速经编贾卡机器上编织双色提花鞋材的方法。利用电子贾卡可以同时在针前横移和针背横移时进行偏移的特点,结合组织结构和贾卡偏移控制信息与偏移时刻,形成成圈组织、网孔组织、缺垫组织和重经组织,丰富了提花组织结构;利用贾卡梳栉半机号配置特点,在奇数纵行和偶数纵行的贾卡导纱针分别穿不同染色性能的纱线,配合组织结构设计形成具有双色提花效应的布面效果。以具体工艺为例,介绍了双色贾卡提花鞋材的工艺设计方法,包括原料选择、工艺参数设计、染色整理等,开发的鞋材具有良好的穿着舒适性和美观性,可以为其他经编提花面料的开发提供理论参考依据。

In order to solve the problems of few structures and colors of traditional warp-knitted three-dimensional spacer jacquard fabric and low production efficiency,a method of weaving two-color jacquard shoe fabric with high-speed warp knitting Jacquard machine is proposed in this study.The structure of jacquard has been enriched by forming looped tissue,mesh structure,missing pad tissue and heavy tissue based on the feature that electronic Jacquard can shift while lateral moving in front and rear of knitting needle simultaneously in combination with organizational structure,Jacquard transfer control information and transfer moments.According to the characteristics of jacquard comb number configuration,the cloth surface with two-color jacquard effect was designed and formed in combination with the organizational structure by threading jacquard guide needles in odd and even longitudinal rows respectively with yarns of different dyeing properties.In this study,a processes design method of two-color jacquard shoe fabrics was introduced by taking specific processes as an example,including raw material selection,process parameter design,dyeing finishing and so on.The shoe fabric developed in this study has good wearing comfort and aesthetics.This method can provide theoretical reference for the development of other warp-knitted jacquard fabrics.