苗族服饰图案与母花本的文化解读

The Cultural Interpretation of Hmong’s Costume Patterns and Motif Book of Patterns

本文采用人类学田野调查、文献研究与实物比对相结合的研究方法,对黔东南苗族历史文化、古歌内容、服饰图案与图案"母题"进行多次考察与系统研究,尤其是对服饰图案"母花本"与苗族古歌关系,图案"母花本"与苗族织锦、刺绣、蜡染图案源流关系与图案衍生创造关系进行了研究论证,梳理了苗族"母花本"类型,阐述了"母花本"的实用价值与文化意义,提出了苗族"母花本"兼顾历史叙事、图案造型性与工艺启迪性的观点。

In this paper, by the method of field investigation in anthropology and the comparative method of the literature and object, the author isinvestigated and studied systematically on the field of the Hmong’s history, the content of ancient songs, costume patterns and motif of patterns in southeast of Guizhou Province. It has been deeply studied and carefully demonstrated specifically for the relationship between " the motif book of costume patterns" and the Hmong’s ancient songs;the origin and flow relationship between "the motif book of patterns"and the patterns of brocade, embroidery and batik. In the paper, the author sorts out the existing types of the Hmong’s"motif book of patterns",and analyzes its practical value and cultural significance.?The author puts forward a new viewpoint that the Hmong’s" motif book of patterns", not only gives attention to the literary and narrative, but also contains the narrative of visual pattern and the stylization of pattern modeling, as well as the enlightenment of craft making.