几种不同组织结构的衬衫面料保形性研究

Study on shape preservation of shirt fabrics with several different weave structures

根据常见的衬衫面料组织结构,使用JC9.7 tex纱线设计了6种不同组织结构的面料,研究不同组织结构对织物保形性的影响。对面料的保形性(尺寸稳定性、抗折皱性、外观平整度、抗起毛起球性、顶破性、悬垂性)及舒适性(透气、透湿性)进行了测试。结果表明:组织结构对织物的折皱回复角、外观平整度等级、顶破强力、透湿量与透气率有直接影响;织物紧度太大、太小都不利于织物的折皱回复,相同紧度下斜纹组织的抗皱性比平纹好;6种组织结构中2/2斜纹组织抗折皱性最好,2/2方平组织的顶破强力、抗起毛起球等级最高,2/2破斜纹透气、透湿性最好,2/2斜纹组织具有良好的保形性。

According to the weave structure of common shirt fabrics,six fabrics with different weave structures were designed by using JC9.7 tex yarn to study the effects of different wave structures on the shape preservation of shirt fabrics.The shape preservation(dimensional stability,wrinkle resistance,appearance flatness,pilling resistance,bursting,and drapability)and comfort(air and moisture permeability)of the fabric were tested.The results show that the weave structure of the fabric has a direct impact on the wrinkle recovery angle,appearance flatness level,bursting strength,moisture and air permeability of the fabric.If the fabric is too tight or too loose,it will be unfavorable for the wrinkle recovery of the fabric.The wrinkle resistance of the twill weave is better than that of the plain weave under the same tightness.Among the 6 wave structures,the 2/2 twill weave is the best in terms of wrinkle resistance.The 2/2 square weave has the highest bursting strength,and anti-pilling grade.The air permeability and moisture penetrability of 2/2 broken twill perform the best.The 2/2 twill weave exhibits a good shape preservation.