“襻膊”考辨

Textual research on " Pan-bo"

宋代的劳动人民用一种叫“襻膊”的配饰来固定袖子,以方便工作。文章基于现存资料,对“襻膊”的起源、特征及功能进行分析,并对“襻膊”在古代图像中的记载进行梳理分析,探寻与“襻膊”功能性相似的配件,从外观与功能两个方面对“襻膊”及其相似功能的服饰配件进行考辨。在不同历史时期,中国传统服装中用“絭”“襷”“臂绳”“袢”等配件来固定袖子,这些配件的式样与服饰形态有很大的关联,袖子宽广度和长度的变化带来固定袖子的服装配件的式样变化。

The working people in the Song dynasty fixed their sleeves with an accessory called a"Pan-bo"to facilitate their work.Based on the existing data,this paper analyses the origin,characteristics and functions of the"Pan-bo",combs and analyses the records of the"Pan-bo"in ancient images,explores the accessories which have the similar function with the"Pan-bo",and makes a textual research on"Pan-bo"and apparel accessories with the similar functions from the aspects of appearance and function.In different historical periods,"Juan""Pan","Arm rope"and"loop"were used to fix sleeves in traditional Chinese clothing.The style of these accessories is closely related to the shape of clothing.The change of sleeve width and length brings about the change of the style of garment accessories used to fix sleeves.