立体几何褶皱织物的成型与织造

Molding principle and weaving of three-dimensional geometric pleated fabric

为拓宽立体几何褶皱织物的设计思路,设计具有立体几何效果的褶皱织物,对立体几何褶皱织物的成型原理进行了研究和探讨。提出了在二维织物面料铺设折叠线,形成一定规律的几何图案,并将几何图案按折叠线划分成上凸折叠区、下凹折叠区及非折叠区,在不同折叠区填充不同组织并以弹性纱和非弹性纱交替引纬,以此作为设计立体几何褶皱织物的基础。结果显示:设计好几何图案,选择不同的纬二重组织填充不同折叠区域,选用蚕丝为经纱、涤纶低弹丝与氨纶丝包覆的弹力丝与涤纶全拉丝为纬纱进行织造,所得的织物能形成具有明显立体几何形状的褶皱。

In order to widen the design idea of three-dimensional geometric pleated fabrics,and design pleated fabrics with three-dimensional geometric effects,the forming principle of the three-dimensional geometric pleated fabrics was studied and discussed.The design started from drawing folding lines in a two-dimensional fabric,forming the geometric pattern of a certain regularity,and the geometric patterns were classified into convex fold areas and concave fold areas by the fold line.Different weaves were used in different folded areas,and elastic and inelastic yarns were used for alternate weft insertion.This procedure was used as the base design for three-dimensional geometric fold fabrics.The results show that on the basis of the designed geometric pattern,different weft backed weaves can be used to construct different folded areas,and in a particular case,silk is employed as the warp,polyester and spandex-coated elastic yarn and non-elastic polyester are selected as the weft for weaving the fabric.Such woven fabrics demonstrate that obvious three-dimensional geometric shapes can be created.