赖海而食:北部湾地区中越京族的饮食习俗

Eatby Sea:Dietary Customs of Chinese-Vietnamese Jing Nationality in the Beibu Gulf Area

北部湾地区中越京族的饮食习俗有着不同于农牧民族群体的鲜明海洋性特征:京族人食时不定,喜鲜好腥,食材常备鱼虾蟹螺,餐食常有海鲜汤,调味常用鱼蟹汁。其古朴食礼是席地而食;京族人的节日食俗是“坐蒙”,入席人员为男性,地点在“哈亭”,座席分等级,菜肴由参加人员轮流准备。北部湾地区中越京族饮食习俗上的这一相似性,一方面源于该区域中越京族来源的同源性,另一方面与各自聚居环境密切相关,同处南海北部湾畔这一独特的自然地理环境造就了该区域中越京族赖海而食的饮食习俗。

The dietary customs of the Chinese-Vietnamese Jing nationality in the Beibu Gulf area have distinct marine characteristics which are different from those of the farming and pastoral ethnic groups:the Jing people eat at irregular times;like fresh and fishy food;food materials are always fish,shrimp and crab,snails;often have seafood soup;and commonly use fish and crab juice for sauce.Besides,its simple food ceremony include sitting on the ground;only male participants sit according to social estate in a place called“Ha Ting”in a food holiday called“Zuomeng”,and the dishes are prepared by the participants in turn.This similarity in the dietary customs between the Chinese and Vietnamese Jing Nationality in the Beibu Gulf area originates from the same nationality origin and same special living environment of the Beibu Gulf,South China Sea.