基于着装需求的适体型女上衣板型修正探讨

Discussions on dressing demand-based pattern modification of women′s formfitting top wears

适体造型女上衣已经成为女性在正式场合下的主要着装,为了实现舒适美观的着装需求,这类女装在材料、款式、结构、工艺等方面都有一定要求,既要体现女性的形体美,又要满足基本的动态舒适性。具体到结构方面,板型设计的合理性便成为技术层面的难题。针对目前适体造型女上衣的常见外观弊病,经过长期的观察、研究、试验,从结构理论的角度分析原因,提出相应的解决思路,并以衣身、袖子的3种弊病为例,文图对应说明具体的板型修正方法,进而总结出关键部位结构设计的量化要求,可以为板型设计人员提供切实有效的帮助。

Formfitting women′s top wears have become the primary formal dressing for females.The women′s formfitting top wears have certain requirements in terms of fabrics,styles,structures,and techniques to meet the needs of comfort and aesthetics,and to flatter the female curves and allow moving flexibility.Specific to the structure,pattern modification becomes the key technical difficulty.After long-term observation,research and experimentation,the causes of common appearance defects was analyzed and solutions on the theoretical level was offered in this article.Furthermore,the practical pattern modification methods were illustrated through the example of three existing problems in the body and sleeves.In addition,the key garment structural requirements were summarized for patternmaker.