明代袍服用花卉纹绫的分析与仿制

Analyzing and Imitating of a Twill Silk Robe from the Ming Dynasty

对私人收藏的明代袍服用花卉纹绫面料进行了纤维成分鉴别、断代、色彩复原、织物仿制等方面的研究。研究表明:花卉纹绫面料用纤维横截面呈锐角三角形,纵向表面光滑,纤维细度小且不均匀;在酰胺键Ⅰ、酰胺键Ⅱ、酰胺键Ⅲ蛋白质指纹峰的基础上,通过970 cm^-1和990 cm^-1处特征峰确定纤维为桑蚕丝;经碳十四测年分析确定其年代为明代前中期。对袍服用花卉纹绫进行了组织结构、纹样、色彩的分析及仿制。组织结构分析结果确定为花地一上三下左斜纹与二上一下左斜纹的经纬面同向斜纹组织。采用土靛氧化还原染色法获得蓝色、黄色套染的方法获得绿色,最终实现明代服饰用花卉纹绫的复原,为明代服饰的研究打下坚实的基础。

In the paper, a private collected Ming Dynasty robe was analyzed by fiber identification, dating, fabric structure, color restoration and pattern imitation. The results showed that the fibers of robe fabric were propinquity triangles in cross-section, smooth in longitudinal surface and uneven in fineness by SEM observation. The characteristic peaks of 970 cm^-1 and 990 cm^-1 were identified as mulberry silk by the infra-red spectrogram based on amide bond Ⅰ,Ⅱ,Ⅲ. The 14 C dating data revealed that the robe fabric came from the first half of Ming Dynasty. Then the flower twills on Ming Dynasty robe was analyzed in the weave structure, pattern and color. The results of structure analysis showed that it was warp-faced and weft-faced left twill weave in pattern and ground, respectively. In order to restore the traditional color, after blue color was dyed by natural indigo with the method of vat dyeing, the green was gained by yellow dyeing again. The classic flower twills were imitated according to the results of the material analysis, structure analysis and color research of the Ming Dynasty silk fabric. The work will lay a foundation for researches of the Ming Dynasty robe.