非遗视阈下“津派花丝制作技艺”的发展与应用

The Development and Application of "Jinpai Filigree Making Technique" under Intangible Cultural Heritage

花丝镶嵌是一门传承久远的手工艺,与景泰蓝、玉雕、牙雕、雕漆、金漆镶嵌、宫毯、京绣并称为"燕京八绝",是我国传统首饰制作技艺中的代表,在历代一直为宫廷御用,作品造型立体生动,精致高雅,金银通过拔丝、掐丝等技法变得柔和轻盈,与镶嵌的宝石相映成辉。花丝镶嵌制作技艺经过3000多年的发展,在明清时期达到高超的工艺水平。诞生于天津的"津派花丝制作技艺"继承了花丝镶嵌制作技艺精美细致的特点,同时结合了独有的"天津卫"风格,独树一帜。上世纪出口创汇时期,花丝镶嵌在国际工艺品市场上曾经一度辉煌,但随着20世纪90年代天津地区花丝从业人员的失业,以及人才培养周期长、材料昂贵、师带徒传承模式的限制等原因,花丝制作技艺面临后继乏人的局面。2008年6月,花丝镶嵌制作技艺被列入"国家级非物质文化遗产名录"中,在这一契机下,花丝技艺传承人纷纷进行创新与传承。但是现代珠宝饰品简约化、批量生产化仍给花丝制作工艺的传承和发展带来极大的阻碍。

Filigree inlay is a long-standing handicraft,which is called Yanjing bajue together with cloisonne,jade carving,ivory carving,lacquer carving,gold lacquer inlay,palace carpet and Beijing embroidery.It is a representative of the traditional jewelry making techniques in China.It has been used by the court in successive dynasties.The works are vivid,exquisite and elegant.Gold and silver are soft and light through drawing and pinching,and inlay The jewels of the stone set off each other.After more than 3000 years of development,filigree inlay technology reached a high level in Ming and Qing Dynasties.Born in Tianjin, "Jinpai filigree production technology" inherits the exquisite and meticulous characteristics of filigree inlay production technology,and combines the unique "Tianjin Wei" style,making it unique.In the period of export and foreign exchange earning in the last century,filigree inlaid in the International Arts and crafts market was once brilliant.However,with the unemployment of filigree practitioners in Tianjin in the 1990 s,as well as the long period of talent cultivation,expensive materials,and the limitation of the inheritance mode of teachers and apprentices,filigree manufacturing technology is facing a situation of lack of successors.In June 2008,the filigree inlay technology was listed in the "national intangible cultural heritage list".Under this opportunity,the inheritors of filigree technology have carried out innovation and inheritance.However,the simplification and mass production of modern jewelry still hinder the inheritance and development of filament production technology.