从《童山自记》分析李调元对清代川菜发展的影响

An Analysis on Li Tiaoyuan’s Influence on Sichuan Cuisine in the Qing Dynasty from His My Retired Life

《童山自记》是李调元晚年对自己一生的总结。从《童山自记》入手,本文重点分析李调元辞官归乡后的生活及其经济状况,分析李调元对川菜发展的影响。李调元辞官归乡后,经济十分殷实,政治资源丰厚,为其常年外出旅行,与地方官吏和士人群体交游提供了保证。纵观李调元归乡生活,频繁参与的各种宴饮活动,上至成都府乾隆七十万寿宴,下至县令、胥吏间举行的文会宴饮,家宴,在其数量众多的文字作品中,涉及菜肴的文字阙如。其人生志趣与传统文人一致,不以饮食为要,衷情于典籍收藏,文章著述及诗文创作。根据《童山自记》,综合其诗文,我们可得到李调元对清代川菜发展影响十分有限的结论。

In the paper,we analyze Li Tiaoyuan`s factly implications of Sichuan Cuisine through his retired life. After Li Tiaoyuan retired,he had enough money and political resources,so he could trip to where he wanted and met many local officials as his friends. Actually,Li Tiaoyuan must have been to many banquets together with these officials,but we now cannot find much description about Sichuan Cuisine in his works. According to his My Retired Life,Li Tiaoyuan had interest in writing and collecting books,but paid little attention to his food life. On this basis,we can draw the conclusion that Li Tiaoyuan had little influence on Sichuan Cuisine in the Qing dynasty(1644-1911).