旗袍三围规格的优化设计研究

Optimized design of cheongsam measurements

旗袍需要拥有合身的廓形,贴体程度要求高且强调人体曲线美感,而旗袍的松量设计直接影响其外观造型的优美程度及穿着舒适感。文章首先采用正交实验法针对相同款式旗袍设计了9种不同水平组合的三围松量设置方案,并制作成相同款式不同三围规格的旗袍样衣;然后利用心理学标尺,对9件旗袍样衣的静态造型和穿着舒适感分别进行主观评价,并利用直观分析法和方差分析法综合分析主观评价结果;最后对分析结果进行验证,最终找出外观造型优美程度高和穿着舒适感佳的三围松量水平组合,为旗袍三围规格的优化设计提供理论依据。

Cheongsam need a fitted silhouette,and the requirements for fit and beauty of the human body. The loose design of the cheongsam directly affects the beauty of the appearance and wearing comfort. This paper use the orthogonal test method to design nine different levels of the BWH( bust,waist,hips) looseness setting scheme and actually made 9 pieces of cheongsam samples with the same style and different measurements. Then applied the psychology ruler to evaluate the static modeling and wearing comfort of 9 cheongsam samples and utilized the visual analysis method and the variance analysis method to comprehensively analyze the subjective evaluation results. Finally,verified the analysis results and found the horizontal combination of the BWH looseness with high appearance beauty and good wearing comfort. The result provides theoretical basis for the optimization design of cheongsam measurements.