中国语境下的饮食文化:由语言、信仰表征的清真饮食

Food culture in the Chinese context:Halal food characterized by language and belief

为了解中国各菜系之间的亲疏程度、探究清真饮食(特别是新疆清真饮食)与语言和宗教之间的关系,调查了2058名来自中国31个省级行政区的居民对日常饮食菜系的选择,并用心理测量的范式考察了饮食、语言和宗教三个主观距离变量的影响。结果发现:①原八大菜系的分类变得模糊,鲁菜、川菜和湘菜从食客“口味兼容”的意义上或可重新合并为一大类;②清真菜同其他常食菜系的距离均较远,若有意拉近其与其他菜系的距离,可考虑从与清真菜主观距离近(如浙菜)或共现频次高(如东北菜)的菜系入手;③饮食距离随着宗教距离和语言距离的变化呈现倒U型,且宗教距离在其中起主要作用。研究结果可为餐饮业的实践,特别是为新疆地区餐饮业的发展,提供有益的启发和指导。

In order to understand the degree of intimacy between Chinese cuisines,and to explore the relationship between halal diets,especially Xinjiang halal diets,and language and religion,a survey of 2,058 residents from 31 provincial administrative regions in China on daily dietary cuisines choice was conducted.The psychometric paradigm was used to examine the effects of three subjective distance variables,i.e.diet,language,and religion.The results showed that:①the classification of the original eight major cuisines became blurred,and the Shandong cuisine,Sichuan cuisine,and Hunan cuisine could be recombined into a major category in the sense of“taste compatibility”;②the distance between halal cuisine and other regular cuisines is far,which could be narrowed from other cuisines by starting with the subjective distance of halal dishes(such as Zhejiang cuisine)or high co-occurrence frequency(such as Northeastern cuisine);③The diet distance varies with religious distance and language distance in a reverse U-shape,predominated by the religious distance.The research results might provide useful inspiration and guidance for the practice of the catering industry,especially for the development of the catering industry in Xinjiang.