《格物粗谈》中的服饰类条目研究

The Research on the Clothing Items in Ge Wu Cu Tan

[研究意义]《格物粗谈》一书专门设有“服饰”一节。其中包含衣物保存、纺织品性能改变、织品洗涤,以及香料和佩饰制作等方面的实用方法与经验,使该书成为对宋元时期这些领域做深入研究的重要文献资料。[研究方法]文章对书中这部分条目按内容予以分类,对这些经验方法做了科学解读。[研究结果与结论]研究发现与该书中其他类别知识往往真假并存不同,这部分内容在现代科学的语境下,基本上都是有可靠依据的,因而是真实可信的。这证明这些知识应该是直接来源于古人的生活实践,因而能较好地反映那一时期人们的部分生活状态。

Ge Wu Cu Tan,an important document for further research on apparel during the Song and Yuan Dynasties,had a special section about apparel,which was concerned with practical methods and experience in clothing preservation,textile performance changing,fabric washing,and perfume and adornment making.This paper classified this part of the book according to its content,and gave a scientific interpretation of these experiences and methods.The study found that different from other parts of the book which contained true and false information,this apparel part was basically true and reliable according to modern science.The study also showed that the knowledge in this part came directly from life experience and could reflect the people's living conditions in that period to some extent.