新中国初期(1949~1965年)外销丝绸设计的 策略与范式特征研究

Research on the Design Strategy and Paradigm of Silks for Export in the Beginning of New China(1949~1965)

[研究的意义]对新中国初期外销丝绸设计策略和范式特征,以及历史合理性及负面效果的研究,不仅是新中国丝绸历史研究与书写的需要,对新时期中国丝绸设计国际化、时尚化发展也具有诸多启示与借鉴。[研究方法]以历史文献与设计案例的调查、比较为基础,剖析、探讨新中国初期丝绸设计的策略与范式特征。[研究结果和结论]其设计策略和范式的建构,在建国初到“一五”计划时期,以延用传统题材和注重民族特色的改良为主,总体上体现为单调和保守的特征;“二五”计划和国民经济调整时期,设计范式转而建立在民族风格与外来文化影响,革命现实主义与革命浪漫主义相结合的基础之上,使外销丝绸获得了博采众长,百花齐放的新局面。

The research on the design strategy and paradigm of silks for export as well as the historical rationality and negative effects in the early period of new China,is not only the need of the research and writing of silk history in New China,but also has many implications and references for the internationalization and fashion development of Chinese silk design in the new era.Based on the investigation and comparison of historical documents and design cases,the author analyzes and discusses the strategies and paradigms of silk design in the early period of new China.From the early days of the founding of the people's Republic of China to the first five-year plan period,the silk design strategy and paradigm were mainly based on the continuation of traditional themes and the improvement of national characteristics,and they generally had monotonous and conservative features.During the second five-year plan and the period of national economic adjustment,silk design paradigm was built on the combination of national style,foreign cultural influence,revolutionary realism and revolutionary romanticism.As a result,the silks for export achieved great success.