女装合体袖袖山与袖窿对条格的配伍研究

Study on the Pattern Matching of Sleeve Cap and Armhole in Women’s Wear

文章以女装合体袖的配袖方法作为研究对象,以国家服装号型标准中的160/84A作为结构设计研究的号型基础,通过实验对衣身袖窿的结构设计,袖子的袖山高、对位点,吃势量控制等因素及相互关系进行研究分析,总结能够实现袖窿与袖山配伍并能条格对合,合理控制吃势量的配袖方法。

This paper takes fitting sleeves of women’s wear as the research object,and takes 160/84A in the national apparel size standard as the basic model for structural design research.Through experiments,the paper carried out research on the influential elements,i.e.,sleeve cap height,as well as the shrinkage and match between armholes and sleeve crowns.On these bases,the paper presents a new method of sleeve matching,which can reasonably control the match and shrinkage between armholes and sleeve crowns and let the pattern match each other.