四针床全成形休闲西服的工艺设计与成形原理

Process design and knitting principle of one-piece casual suits based on four-needle-bed flat knitting machine

为实现休闲西服的一次成形编织,以日本岛精公司四针床电脑横机为依托,对四针床全成形西服的成形规律进行研究。根据全成形西服与普通毛衫版型的区别,选取衣身、领型为研究对象,对其工艺设计方法和成形原理进行分析。结果表明:从裁剪式西服到全成形西服转换过程中,可采用矩形滑移变换的方法进行工艺转化;衣身采用局部编织可形成弧形下摆,采用收放针可形成分割线;衣领中翻领采用边编织边移针的连身立领编织方法与后领窝衔接,驳头超过门襟中心线的区域采用矩形滑移方法变换至内部;局部前、后片不同形状的区域在保持前、后针床线圈编织平衡的前提下,通过不等长编织和不等宽编织可实现精确尺寸调整。

In order to achieve one-piece knitting of casual suits,the formation of one-piece suits was studied on the basis of the four-needle-bed computerized Shima Seiki flat knitting machine.According to the difference between one-piece suits and ordinary sweaters,the body and collar were selected as research objects,and their process design methods and forming principles were investigated.In the conversion process from tailored suits to one-piece suits,rectangular slip transformation is adopted to transform the process,the body is knitted with partial knitting to form a curved hem,and the retractable stitches are used to form the dividing line.The lapel is knitted with the rear collar strip knitting method that mobilizes the needles while knitting and connecting with the back collar,and the area where the splice exceeds the centerline of the placket is transformed into the interior by a rectangular sliding method.Under the premise of keeping the balance of the front and rear stitches,the precise size control of the front and rear of suit can be realized by means of unequal length and unequal width knitting.