馆藏清代官服的科学分析及其服饰工艺

Scientific Analysis and Handicraft of the Qing Dynasty Official Costume in the Museum

以中国国家博物馆一件清代织锦缠枝牡丹吉祥纹土司官服为研究对象,采用显微观察、便携式能谱、红外光谱等方法对文物的保存状况进行分析检测,科学评估文物存在的各种病害,同时研究文物的形制结构、裁剪方法、所用布料的组织结构、缝合方式和纹样等。研究结果为该文物的储存、展示和进一步保护修复工作提供准确的基础信息,也为研究清代纺织品原料品种、生产工艺、服饰制度等提供一定的参考。

This paper selected a Qing Dynasty chieftain's brocade official costume with interlocking peony auspicious pattern from the National Museum of China as the research object.Microscopic observation,portable energy disperse spectroscopy and infrared spectroscopy were adopted to analyze and detect the preservation of this cultural relics.A variety of diseases and damages found on the object were scientifically evaluated.In addition,its shape and structure,tailoring method,texture of the fabrics used,the stitching method and the pattern were studied.The study could provide the basic information of the storage,display and further protection and restoration of cultural relics,and also provided a reference for studying the varieties of textile materials,production processes and clothing system in Qing Dynasty.