麻棉及麻涤混纺针织物的开发与工艺优化

Development and Process Optimization of Flax/Cotton and Flax/Polyester Blended Knitted Fabrics

针对亚麻混纺针织物在生产过程中因亚麻纤维抗弯刚度大而引起的断纱、爆孔、破洞等问题,介绍亚麻混纺纱的纺纱工艺和织造工艺特点及改善措施。选用36 tex(16S)亚麻与棉混纺纱(55∶45)和36 tex(16S)亚麻与涤纶混纺纱(55∶45)开发麻棉、麻涤混纺针织面料,详细阐述组织结构确定、织机选择和参数设置等开发工艺,分析面料外观效果,提出爆孔及破洞问题的解决办法。指出在纺纱工序使亚麻保持高回潮率,织造工序调节粗针织造,染色工序进行前处理,可降低亚麻混纺针织面料生产过程中的断纱、爆孔等问题,进一步提高企业的生产能力以及降低企业的生产费用。

In view of the problems of yarn breaking,bursting holes and breaking holes caused by the high bending rigidity of flax fiber in the production process of flax blended knitted fabric,this paper introduces the spinning process and knitting process characteristics of flax blended yarn and the improved measures.The 36 tex(16S)flax and cotton blended yarn(55∶45)and 36 tex flax and polyester blended yarn(55∶45)are selected to develop flax and cotton and flax and polyester blended knitted fabric.The development process such as the determination of fabric structure,the selection of machines and parameters setting are expounded in detail.It analyzes the appearance effect of the fabric,and puts forward the solutions to the problems of bursting and breaking holes.It points out that the problems such as yarn breaking and bursting holes in the production process of flax blended knitted fabric can be reduced by keeping flax fiber high moisture regain in spinning process,using thick needle in knitting process and pre-treatment in dyeing process,so as to further improve the production capacity and reduce the production cost of the enterprise.