虚实视角下女上装原型的差异化探究

Differentiation research on the women's upper blocks from virtual and real perspective

针对国内现行的衣身原型异同点及适用范围模糊的问题,通过调研确定了高校教学中广泛使用的4种衣身原型:W原型、H原型、L原型和X原型。从平面构成角度,借助服装CAD制图软件详细解析了这4种原型在建构过程、平面廓形、平衡方式及结构特征等方面的差异性;从立体构成层面角度,从整体造型、局部细节分析了4种原型所制成的样衣与人台(虚拟人体)的吻合情况。得出:W原型因构建理论完善、数据推导合理而利于推广使用,H原型次之;4种原型形制有别,即W原型适合合体度高的服装品类,H、L原型适合合体度一般的服装品类,X原型适合宽松型的服装品类,为合理选用女上装原型提供了理论支撑。

In view of the ambiguity of similarities and differences of the existing clothing prototypes in China and the scope of application,the four widely used blocks in college teaching,namely,the W,the H,the L and the X prototype,were determined by means of investigation.Then,the construction process,platting silhouette,balance mode and structural characters of the four prototypes were analyzed and the differences between them were achieved from the perspective of flat patterning,with the aid of the clothing CAD drawing software.The matching between the sample clothes made of four prototypes and the mannequin(virtual human body)were analyzed based on the overall modeling and key details from the perspective of draping patterning.The results showed that W prototype could be widely used in teaching because of the perfect construction theory and reasonable data derivation,followed by H prototype.At the same time,the four prototypes are different in shape,but they have the same aim which is serving for garments,namely W prototype is suitable for clothing categories with high fitness,H and L prototype are suitable for clothing categories with general fitness,and X prototype is suitable for loose clothing categories,which can provide theoretical support for rational selection of prototypes in clothing teaching and enterprise production.