清代民国北京糖饼行南北案兴衰初探

The Rise and Fall of Southern and Northern Factions of Beijing Bakery in Qing and Republican China

北京糖饼行基于京城南北兼容、满汉共融的多元饮食文化特色,形成了"南北案分峙""满汉铺一体"的独特局面。清代南北案为维护共同利益建立了糖饼行会,但由于南北案受众与城区分布的不同,多呈现松散分峙的状态。清末南案糕点风靡,以稻香村为首的南果铺迅速占据市场。民国初年,新式糕点在京的流行对传统糕点行造成冲击。糖饼行业开始采取手段应对,但受政局动荡影响,整体走向衰退。本文以北京糖饼行一业作为考察对象,以南北两案为中心,梳理南北两案的缘起、合作及分立的具体状况,探讨清以来北京糖饼行发展的具体表现和衰落的原因,及糖饼行业的兴衰造成的诸多影响。

The Beijing bakery was renowned for the blend of southern and northern flavors and the unity of Han and Manchu styles.The southern and northern factions had founded a united guild.The southern faction represented by Daoxiangcun was more popular in the late Qing.The modern bakery challenged the traditional Chinese bakery in the early Republican China.The present paper attempts to shed new light on the vicissitudes of Beijing bakery since Qing.