石榴汁和胭脂树籽染料对童装大麻针织面料染色的方法及色牢度对比

Comparison of dyeing method and colorfastness of pomegranate juice and annatto seed dyes on hemp knitted fabrics for children’s wear

为了探讨童装面料的可持续性染色方法,采用有机石榴汁和胭脂树籽两种天然染料对大麻针织物和麻/棉混纺针织物进行染色处理,并对其耐皂洗色牢度和耐摩擦色牢度进行了对比评估。为了提高染色效果,采用预媒染工艺,以石榴皮作为媒染剂,采用自行开发的染色工艺进行染色处理,并创新性地使用荷叶提取物作为有机固色剂。对比有机石榴汁和胭脂树籽两种染料染色样品的耐皂洗色牢度(AATCC 61-2013)和耐摩擦色牢度(AATCC 8-2016)发现,大麻/棉混纺针织物的两种色牢度明显优于纯纺大麻针织物,其中采用胭脂树籽染色的大麻/棉混纺针织物,耐皂洗色牢度和耐摩擦色牢度均符合ASTM D4154-14和ASTM D4156-14两项儿童针织物运动服装面料标准性能规格的4级要求,可作为儿童运动服装材料。

In order to explore the sustainable dyeing methods of children’s wear fabrics,two natural dyes of organic pomegranate juice and annatto seed were used for dyeing the hemp knitted fabric and hemp/cotton blended knitted fabric,and the colorfastness to soap washing and colorfastness to rubbing were compared and evaluated.In order to improve the dyeing effect,premordant dyeing process using mordant of pomegranate peel was adopted,and the self-developed dyeing process was adopted for dyeing treatment,and lotus leaf extract was innovatively used as organic color fixing agent.According to the results of colorfastness to soap washing(AATCC 61)and colorfastness to rubbing(AATCC TM8)of organic pomegranate juice and annatto seeds dyed samples,both of the colorfastness of hemp/cotton blended knitted fabrics were obviously higher than that of pure hemp knitted fabrics.Hemp/cotton blended knitted fabric dyed by annatto seed could meet the requirements of level 4 standard children’s knitted sportswear fabrics in ASTM D4154-14 and ASTM D4156-14,which could be an material for childrens’ sportswear.