印度帕西刺绣的特征研究

Study on artistic features of Parsi embroidery in India

通过文献和实物相结合的考证方法,对联合国教科文组织Parzor基金会和帕西人收藏的154件20世纪的帕西刺绣产品进行研究,得出:帕西刺绣的纹样有花卉植物纹、动物纹、人物风景纹等,排列方式有单独纹样和连续纹样的二方和四方连续,使用最多的针法是平绣,其次为打籽绣和锁绣。轻薄的绞经暗花织物最多用作满绣纱丽,平纹地暗花织物仅用作裤子局部装饰刺绣,女性和儿童上衣用素色五枚缎居多。帕西刺绣是帕西人获得身份认同,传达美好寓意,兼具实用和美的服饰。帕西刺绣在现代服饰上的创新应用,为其在当代的传承和发展注入了活力。对帕西刺绣的研究,有利于在当代的传承和发展。

More than 154 Parsi embroidery of 20 century collected by the UNESCO Parzor Foundation and the Parsi people in India was studied by combing with related literatures,it was concluded that the patterns of Parsi embroidery mainly include floral and plant patterns,animal patterns,figure landscape patterns etc.Its arrangement include individual patterns,continuous patterns with double-square continuity pattern and four-square continuity pattern.It was found satin stitch was the most common stitch adopted,following by seed stitch and lock stitch.Light and thin leno-dent weave was mostly used as full embroidery sari,jacquard weave was used as pants,and five-end satin weave was mostly used for women′s and children′s tops.Parsi embroidery was the practical and beautiful clothing which help Parsi citizen acquire status identity,conveying beautiful and positive meanings.The innovative application of Parsi embroidery in modern clothing was conducive to the inheritance and development of Parsi embroidery in the contemporary era.The study of Parsi embroidery was conducive to the inheritance and development of contemporary.