少数民族服饰文化式微与再生论--当代设计师与民族“匠人”跨界合作实践探索之一

The Decline and Regeneration of The Ethnic Costume and Adornment Culture--One of The Practical Explorations of Crossborder Cooperation between Contemporary Designers and Ethnic Craftsmen

"一带一路"使中国少数民族地区从改革开放的后台移到了前哨,在时代变革与流行文化冲击下,少数民族传统服饰文化式微已成普遍现象,且有每况愈下之势。究其原因,有民族文化衰竭论及"亨廷顿悖论"现象之说,然二者皆隔靴搔痒。本文以文化土壤"酸碱论"为基础,从生产方式、生活环境、生活方式等底层要素出发,试图揭开少数民族传统文化式微根本原因,并藉此提出少数民族服饰新文化构想及实施方向。

The Belt and Road Initiative has shifted China’s minority areas to from the back-end to the outpost of the Reform and Opening.The decline of traditional ethnic costumes and adornment culture has become a common phenomenon and has a worse tendency by the impact of era transformation and popular culture. In the theory circle, there are 2 parlances for this: one is the theory of national cultural exhaustion and the other is the phenomenon of Huntington paradox. But both of them are attempting an ineffective solution. Based on the theory of Acid & Alkali of Cultural Soil, this paper attempts to uncover the basic reason of the decline of the ethnic traditional culture from the bottom factors such as production mode, living environment and life style, and thus puts forward the new cultural conception and implementation direction of ethnic costumes & adorments.