新疆地织机织造技艺考析

Research on weaving technique of the ground loom in Xinjiang

目前针对于史前织造技艺的研究处于相对欠缺的状态,为提供可靠的实证考据,文章以民族学中织机织造技艺考察为重点,通过对新疆相关乡镇的田野考察,获取地织机织造的第一手图文资料,并从织造技术的角度来探究地织机在中国古代纺织史中所处的时期。由调查可知,新疆地织机主要构件为:线综、分经棍、打纬刀,对应“纺”的工具为纺轮,所用纱线以毛纤维为主,根据分析得出地织机的出现时间应不晚于商周时期。地织机的使用范围覆盖全疆,可织造出平纹与平纹地提花织物,掌握地织机织造技艺的民族主要涉及维吾尔族、哈萨克族、柯尔克孜族等。

At present,the research on prehistoric weaving skills is relatively shortcoming.In order to provide reliable empirical evidence,this paper focuses on the investigation of weaving skills of looms in ethnology.Through field surveys of relevant towns and villages in Xinjiang,obtained the first manuscript and graphic data,and explored the period of the ground loom in China’s ancient textile history from the perspective of weaving technology.According to the investigation,the main components of the Xinjiang ground loom are:yarn heald,warp stick,and beating-up knife.The spinning tool is the spinning wheel,and the yarn used is mainly wool.According to the analysis,the emergence time of the ground loom should not be later than the Shang and Zhou dynasties.The use of the ground loom covers the whole territory of Xinjiang,and plain and plain jacquard fabrics can be woven.The people who master the weaving skills of the ground loom mainly involve the Uygur,Kazakh,and Kirgiz ethnic groups,etc.