默克罗比论“二手服装市场”的时尚风格意义

Merck Rupee's View on the Fashion Significance of"Second-hand Clothing Market"

默克卢比作为英国伯明翰学派中女性亚文化研究的代表人物,以其独特的女性视角,格外关注边缘女性群体的真实生命体验,不断突出多元女性群体在亚文化中的重要作用和地位。其中,在对英国战后“二手服装市场”的亚文化研究中,默克卢比在结合了嬉皮士文化、朋克文化、消费文化、视觉文化等多种文化形态的基础上,以“二手服装”所呈现出的风格化样貌为核心,展现了在特定历史、文化背景下“二手服装”所承载的时代意义,进一步挖掘出其背后所具有的时尚风格意义。

As a representative of female subculture research in the Birmingham School in the United Kingdom,Merkel Rupee pays special attention to the real life experience of marginal female groups with her unique female perspective,and continuously highlights the important role and status of multiple female groups in the subculture.Among them,in the sub-cultural research on the post-war"second-hand clothing market"in Britain,Merkel Rupee combined various cultural forms such as hippie culture,punk culture,consumer culture,visual culture,etc.The stylized appearance presented at the core shows the significance of the times carried by"second-hand clothing"in a specific historical and cultural context,and further explores the meaning of the fashion style behind it.It is worth mentioning that Merkel Rupee always pays attention to the outstanding performance of women in the fashion field.It also emphasizes the need to pay special attention to the differences within the female group.On the basis of breaking through the female paradigm in male social authority,they gradually build their own female subculture.