5种整理方式对棉织物风格的影响

Influence of Five Finishing Method on Cotton Fabric Style

探讨5种整理方式对纯棉织物风格的影响。对5种不同组织规格的纯棉机织物分别进行柔软、免烫、液氨柔软、液氨免烫、液氨潮交联整理,然后采用PhabrOmeter织物风格仪测试各面料褶皱恢复性、悬垂性、挠度、软度和滑度。结果表明:5种整理方式均提高了织物的柔软性、悬垂性和抗皱性,液氨和潮交联能显著提升整理效果,而液氨潮交联整理可获得柔软抗皱性能最佳的纯棉面料。认为:PhabrOmeter织物风格仪用于织物风格相关研究具有明显的优势。

The influence of five finishing methods on the pure cotton fabric styles were discussed.The pure cot⁃ton woven fabric with five different texture specifications were finished by softening,non-ironing,softening with liquid ammonia,non-ironing with liquid ammonia and moist crosslinking finishing with liquid ammonia respectively.Then,the wrinkle recovery,drapability,deflection,softness and smoothness of each fabric were tested by PhabrOmeter fabric style tester.The test results showed that the softness,drapability and anti-wrinkle property of fabrics were all improved by the five finishing methods.Liquid ammonia and moist crosslinking could improve the finishing effect obviously while liquid ammonia crosslink finishing could obtain the pure cotton fabric with the best softening and anti-wrinkle property.It is considered that PhabrOmeter fabric style tester has obvious advantages on the fabric style related study.