图像学视野下的传统民族手工艺服饰图案--以水族马尾绣背扇为例

Traditional national handicraft clothing patterns in the visual field of iconology:case study of horsetail embroidery harness of Shui nationality

深入贵州省黔南地区,运用民族学中的实践调查法对贵州水族马尾绣进行调查研究,同时结合文献资料,以艺术史研究方法中的图像学研究方法对黔南地区水族马尾绣背扇图案进行解读。基于图像学的分析可知,水族马尾绣背扇图案不仅构图严谨、色彩明丽,同时具有丰富的寓意,在其寓意的背后隐含着水族人民的思想情感、水族历史的发展演变及水族社会的文化内涵。文章试图以图像学为研究方法,对传统民族手工艺服饰图案的研究提供不同的思路与参考价值。

The authorused the practical investigation method in ethnology to go deep into the southern Guizhou province and make a research on the horntail embroidery harness of Shui nationalityin Guizhou province.At the same time,combined with the literature materials,the author explained and analyzed the horsetail embroidery harness patterns of Shui nationality in the southern Guizhou province with the iconology research in the art history research method.Based on the analysis of iconology,it can be seen that the horsetail embroidery harness pattern of Shui nationality not only has rigorous composition and bright colors,but also has rich implication,which implies the thoughts and feelings of the Shui people,the development and evolution of the Shui nationality history and the cultural connotation of the Shui nationality society.This paper attempts to provide different ideas and reference values for the study of traditional national handicraft costume patterns by means of iconology.